“Is it time to replace my Wi-Fi router? I’ve had it for a few years!” I receive questions like that regularly, especially from those who still use Wi-Fi 5. Since the introduction of Wi-Fi 7, folks have been worried about replacing their Wi-Fi routers, sometimes for the wrong reasons. They think that their router is “dated,” “out of date,” or “no longer relevant.”
And that’s understandable. Wi-Fi 7 is two generations newer than Wi-Fi 5 — two and a half if you include Wi-Fi 6E. The marketing hype and online clickbait can create a huge sense of FoMO, at the very least. That’s not to mention Wi-Fi 8 is slated to be available as early as 2027.
However, just because there’s a new standard doesn’t mean older Wi-Fi devices are automatically obsolete. Getting a new router doesn’t mean existing clients are magically updated; existing devices will continue to use Wi-Fi 5 (or even older standards) for the rest of their lives.
Additionally, while the latest Wi-Fi devices will work with any existing (old) router, the opposite is not necessarily true: a router of the latest Wi-Fi standard does not always work with all existing clients.
The point is that, you shouldn’t replace a Wi-Fi host device — a router, access point, extender, or mesh Wi-Fi system — just because of the Wi-Fi standard it supports. No standard is obsolete if you can still use it. So, the real question is when it makes sense to upgrade or replace your networking hardware, beyond just staying on the cutting edge.
This post provides a comprehensive and detailed answer. The short answer: replace a device only when it no longer meets your daily needs.
Dong’s note: I first published this post on March 18, 2023, and updated it on July 9, 2026, to include up-to-date and relevant information.
Wi-Fi hardware replacement: It’s always case by case
It’s mid 2026, and I’m still using a couple of Wi-Fi 5 routers at different locations, including a UniFi Dream Machine and a Synology RT2600ac.
The reason is simple: they have worked well. (In fact, the UDM can still run the latest UniFi OS and will remain relevant for a long time, especially since you can simply ignore its built-in Wi-Fi.) Restarting each of them occasionally and upgrading them to the latest firmware when applicable has been all the necessary maintenance.
So, despite having a garage half-full of practically new hardware I’ve used for the reviews, I’ll still keep these old routers in their place for the foreseeable future. However, over the years, I’ve replaced many networking devices, including routers, access points, switches, and whatnot. All for one or more of the following five reasons.
1. Broken hardware
This case is the most obvious. If something is broken, then you need to replace it.
When it comes to networking hardware, stuff often breaks on the inside. A router can look fine physically, but its internal memory or circuitry is damaged for one reason or another — a botched firmware update or a power surge is often enough to render it useless.
So, if your hardware is broken, you have no choice but to replace it. But this applies to everything and could happen to a brand-new piece of hardware. You know a router is broken when it no longer turns on, even with a replacement power adapter, or it fails to assign IP addresses to a client (like a computer) even after a hard reset.
2. Security risk vs. firmware updates
Security risk is probably the most important factor determining whether a router is worth keeping.
However, not all risks are equal. Specifically, there are two sides of a router where security applies differently: your local network (typically your home) and the Internet (the outside world).
Security on the local network (LAN) side
Within your home, the router’s security keeps connected clients in check. In most cases, you want to keep unwanted devices from your network. Consequently, here are a few things to consider:
- If your local network doesn’t require restrictions, such as an intentionally open Wi-Fi network (SSID) without a password, then security doesn’t apply. In this case, any Wi-Fi standard or security level works.
- If you want to make your Wi-Fi public and have already isolated the access point, no additional security is necessary.
- If you need to keep your network private, keep in mind that WPA with AES encryption is the minimum requirement, WPA2 is generally the norm, and WPA3 is required for Wi-Fi 6E and Wi-Fi 7 newer devices. In this case, a replacement is generally recommended if the current router does not support WPA2.
So, on the local (home) front, security can be optional. It depends on how much you want to keep your devices safe from local threats, which are generally limited by physical proximity.
Security on the Internet (WAN) side
On the other hand, the security against online threats — those from the outside world via the Internet connection — is more severe since geophysical boundaries do not limit them. It’s where you don’t want to overlook or compromise when applicable.
If a router has a known vulnerability on the WAN side and no security patch is available, you must let it go.
However, note that “known” is the keyword. That’s because all devices are vulnerable to some degree when connected to the Internet. It’s a matter of keeping that secret, or unknown, from interested parties.
It’s only when a vulnerability becomes known that the device, and therefore the user, is at risk of being controlled or exploited by a remote, unauthorized party.
So, when you hear about a serious vulnerability, and it’s not yet patched or will not be fixed (soon enough) via firmware updates — there are a lot of online security “experts” standing by to talk about it — it’s time to get a different router model (better yet, from another vendor).
Tip
Security is nuanced. By default, every device connected to the Internet is vulnerable, much like as long as you live, you’re at risk of dying. Absolute security exists only when you’re unplugged or cease to exist.
Not all routers have (known) vulnerabilities, and those that do often have fewer, or even none, the longer they have been on the market. Plus, the older a router is, the less of a target it becomes, since fewer people have it.
In other words, newly released hardware might have more vulnerabilities than older ones. That is partly why Wi-Fi routers tend to have new firmware less frequently over time.
Router and firmware updates
Firmware updates, or the lack thereof, should not be a decisive factor when choosing or discarding a router.
While some vendors add new features or improvements with updates, most new firmware revisions contain required security patches. So, no update can mean there’s no credible vulnerability, which is a good thing. (Security firmware updates to routers are like recalls to cars. Having a lot of them is not necessarily a good thing.)
The lack of firmware updates also doesn’t mean the router is no longer supported. That’s a case-by-case decision. Many routers still work fine even after the vendor has declared them unsupported. (You don’t need to get a new car just because the model you’re driving is no longer in production.)
Again, security is about nuance. Just because a router no longer has firmware updates doesn’t necessarily mean it needs to be replaced. But if you want to be sure, security is always a good reason to get new devices. In this case, keep in mind that newer doesn’t necessarily mean fewer vulnerabilities.
3. Broadband speed grades
We generally use local networking devices to access the Internet. So, if you upgrade your broadband to a significantly faster tier, such as from a sub-Gig to a full Gig or multi-Gig plan, it’s likely time to upgrade the hardware to take advantage of the new bandwidth.
Still, in most cases, upgrading is unnecessary if you just want a connection fast enough for specific applications, and most applications don’t require more than 100Mbps. I wrote in detail about broadband in this post on Gigabit Internet.
The table below shows which Wi-Fi standard applies based solely on the broadband bandwidth you want to deliver.
| Broadband Speed | Minimum Port Speed Grade (WAN and LAN ports on the router and switches) | Minimum Wi-Fi Standard to Consider for a Single Broadcaster (Router / Access Point) | Minimum Wi-Fi Standard to Consider for a Mesh System |
| 50Mbps or slower | Fast Ethernet (100Mbps) | Any Wi-Fi Standard | Any Wi-Fi Standard |
| Up to 150Mbps | Gigabit | Wi-Fi 4 | Wi-Fi 4 (via wired access points) |
| Up to 250Mbps | Gigabit | Wi-Fi 4 (top-tier) Wi-Fi 5 | Wi-Fi 5 |
| Up to 500Mbps | Gigabit | Wi-Fi 5 | Wi-Fi 5 (wired backhauling) Wi-Fi 6 |
| Up to Gigabit | 2.5Gbps Multi-Gig | Wi-Fi 6 or 6E | Wi-Fi 6/ 6E (top-tier, preferably via wired backhauling) |
| Up to Gig+ | 2.5Gbps Multi-Gig | Wi-Fi 6 or 6E (top-tier) | Wi-Fi 6/6E (top-tier with Multi-Gig wired backhauling) or Wi-Fi 7 with MLO backhaul |
| 2Gbps or Faster | 5Gbps Multi-Gig, 10Gbps Multi-Gig, SFP+ | Wi-Fi 7 and later | Wi-Fi 7 and later (preferably via 2.5Gbps or faster wired backhauling) |
Again, note that all Wi-Fi standards (and network ports) work with all Internet plans. The standards mentioned above are the minimum recommended to deliver the desired broadband speeds wirelessly.
In other words, if your Internet is 500Mbps or slower, you only need a Wi-Fi 5 router. Getting a Wi-Fi 6 or Wi-Fi 7 router doesn’t hurt, but that isn’t necessary. On the other hand, even with 10 Gbps broadband, a Wi-Fi 6 or Wi-Fi 5 router will still suffice, as long as you don’t care about peak performance on the end device (which you don’t necessarily need).
Speaking of performance, generally no Wi-Fi connection can deliver more than 4 Gbps of real-world sustained throughput, as is the case with 2×2 Wi-Fi 7 adapters, which are currently the fastest. But a faster router lets you deliver high speeds to multiple devices simultaneously.
Tip
Gig+, or Gig Plus, denotes a speed grade between 1Gbps and 2Gbps. So, it’s 1.5Gbps, give or take a couple of hundred megabits per second, and it’s not speedy enough to qualify as Multi-Gig Ethernet or multi-Gigabit. Intel coined the term to describe its Wi-Fi 6E client chips, the AX210 and AX211, in terms of their real-world speeds.
Gig+ primarily applies to sustained Wi-Fi 6 or Wi-Fi 7 speeds via a 2×2 at 160MHz connection, or to broadband internet speeds.
4. Moving from wireless to wired networking
Wi-Fi is always wireless, but to have the best Wi-Fi around a large property, running network cables is a must. With physical wiring, your Wi-Fi network benefits from a strong backhaul link. In this case, with Multi-Gig hardware, you can even achieve multi-Gigabit bandwidth.
So, if you’ve always used your Wi-Fi mesh system in a fully wireless setup, getting your home wired might require a network hardware upgrade, especially if you want to move from Gigabit-class to multi-Gigabit speed grades to enjoy Wi-Fi 7 (and later) to its fullest.
The other way around is also applicable. If you move from a wired home where low-end dual-band Wi-Fi 6 or tri-band Wi-Fi 6E mesh hardware has worked well to a large house without wiring, better hardware might be needed for a fully wireless setup.
5. Features and privacy risks
Over the years, routers have become increasingly sophisticated. Many routers can work as mini NAS servers or have built-in practical features such as online protection, QoS, or Parental Controls. Those from Ubiquiti’s UniFi family can also host other applications, such as IP phones or surveillance cameras.
So if yours doesn’t have the feature you’d like, maybe it’s time to consider one that has.
Note that some routers have all these features for free, while others might sell them as premium add-ons.
Another thing to note is online privacy risks.
If the router requires a login account with the hardware vendor to work, it will likely collect your information. That’s not to mention the fact that you don’t have control over the hardware you supposedly own. If you’re uncomfortable with that, avoid routers from known data miners such as Amazon’s eero or Google Nest Wifi. If you’re using one, replace it!
Other routers won’t collect anything by default, but once you’ve enabled a specific feature, your traffic will be routed to a third party. But that’s a given since, even in real life, you must be exposed to the party that protects you, the security detail, if you want to be protected.
And that’s it. When you find yourself in one of the situations above, it’s time to get a new Wi-Fi machine. You’re justified in doing so. In this case, you can get the latest and greatest or the just-right one that delivers the best bang for your buck.
How about range? Isn’t a new router supposed to offer wall-to-wall coverage?
If you’ve read somewhere that a new router would offer “wall-to-wall coverage,” that’s a meaningless, lazy sale pitch. How close are those walls to each other? Range, or coverage, is the most nuanced notion of Wi-Fi, breeding all sorts of nonsensical ideas and claims. Here’s the deal:
The range of a Wi-Fi device depends on its radio frequency and broadcasting power. The latter is generally limited by local regulations, so typically only the former counts.
Wi-Fi 7’s AFC, available in select hardware, enables higher transmit power on the 6GHz band, making its range comparable to that of the 5GHz band.
That said, the range of a band — 2.4GHz, 5GHz, or 6GHz — is generally the same across hardware of the same tier, regardless of the Wi-Fi standard. However, a good router will deliver faster or more stable connection speeds at greater distances. After all, the range is meaningless without usable data rates.
Open the cabinet below if you want to learn more about the Wi-Fi range, but the gist is that starting with Wi-Fi 5, a new router doesn’t necessarily improve the coverage. That depends.
Wi-Fi range in brief (or maybe not so brief)
Wi-Fi range in theory: It’s “clean” and generous
Radio signals work such that the lower the frequency, the longer the wave can travel. AM and FM radios use frequencies measured in kilohertz and megahertz — you can listen to the same station across a vast area, such as an entire region or a city.
Wi-Fi uses 2.4GHz, 5GHz, and 6GHz frequencies — all of which are incredibly high. As a result, it has much shorter ranges than radios. That’s especially true given that the broadcast power of Wi-Fi devices is regulated.
The maximum allowed broadcast power for Wi-Fi in the U.S. is 1 watt (30 dBm). Wi-Fi 7’s Automated Frequency Coordination (AFC) increases this, but only enough to compensate for the fact that 6GHz is inherently short-range.
But regardless of Wi-Fi standards, these bands generally share the following: the higher the frequencies (in Hz), the higher the bandwidth (speeds), the shorter the ranges, and the more bandwidth is progressively lost over increasing distance.
Generally, physically larger Wi-Fi devices tend to have better range than smaller ones — they use all the allowed broadcast power and have enough processing power to deliver the most bandwidth at the far end of the signal. Still, it’s impossible to accurately determine each one’s actual coverage because it fluctuates wildly and depends heavily on the environment.
That said, here are my estimates of a home Wi-Fi broadcaster’s ranges in the best-case scenario, specifically:
- Outdoor environment
- On a sunny day
- No interference or broadcasters in proximity
- Maximum broadcasting power (30 dBm)
Note that Wi-Fi signals don’t die abruptly but gradually degrade as you get farther away from the broadcaster. The distances mentioned below are when a client still receives signals strong enough for a meaningful connection. Wi-Fi performance also depends on hardware and Wi-Fi standards — a Wi-Fi 7 router is not better than a Wi-Fi 5 one, in range and whatnot, if the network mainly consists of Wi-Fi 5 and older clients.
- 2.4GHz: This band has the best range, up to 200 ft (≈ 60 m). However, it is also the most popular band used by non-Wi-Fi devices like cordless phones and TV remotes. Its real-world speeds suffer severely from interference and other factors. As a result, for years, this band has been considered a backup, applicable when range is more important than speed.
- 5GHz: This band offers much faster speeds than the 2.4GHz band but has shorter range, maxing out at around 150 ft (≈ 45 m).
- 6GHz: This is the latest available band. Two things to keep in mind:
- Wi-Fi 6E: The first standard to support this band, which shares the same ceiling speed as 5GHz. However, thanks to less interference and overhead, its actual real-world rate is faster. In return, due to the higher frequency, it has just about 70% of the range, which maxes out at approximately 115 ft (≈ 35m).
- Wi-Fi 7: This is the latest standard, in which the 6GHz band’s channel width (and bandwidth) is doubled. Additionally, with devices that support AFC, such as the Ubiquiti E7, this band gets a boost in broadcast power to deliver the same range as 5GHz.
Wi-Fi range in real life: The devil is in the little and big details
In real-world use, Wi-Fi devices operating on the same frequency band and with the same transmit power generally deliver the same coverage. Specifically, they are all the same if you measure the signal reach alone.
What differentiates them is their sustained speeds and signal stability, or how the quality of their Wi-Fi signals changes as you increase the distance. And that generally varies from one model or Wi-Fi standard to another.
Your router’s Wi-Fi range is always much shorter than the theoretical number mentioned above. That’s because Wi-Fi signals are sensitive to interference and obstacles.
While the Wi-Fi range doesn’t depend on the channel width, the wider the channel and the higher the frequency, the less stable it becomes. It’s more susceptible to interference and obstacles, and its range is more acutely hindered. So, within the same standard, more bandwidth generally equals higher fragility.
Below are the items that will affect Wi-Fi ranges.
It’s worth noting that the new 6GHz band generally doesn’t suffer from same-band interference, except when you use multiple access points in proximity. On the other hand, the 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands have a long list of other non-Wi-Fi applications that can degrade their ranges, and there are always many broadcasters in proximity using these bands in urban neighborhoods.
Common 2.4 GHz interference sources: Impossible to measure
- Other 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi broadcasters in the vicinity
- 2.4GHz cordless phones and other appliances
- Fluorescent bulbs
- Bluetooth devices
- Microwave ovens
Common 5 GHz interference sources: Impossible to measure
- Other nearby 5GHz Wi-Fi broadcasters
- 5GHz cordless telephones and other appliances
- Radars
- Digital satellites
Common signal blockage for all Wi-Fi bands: Measurable, albeit challenging, walls and large objects
Physical objects, such as appliances or elevators, hinder all Wi-Fi bands. However, walls are the most problematic obstacle since they are everywhere. Different types of walls block Wi-Fi signals differently, but no wall is good for Wi-Fi.
Here are my rough real-life estimations of how much a wall blocks Wi-Fi signals — generally use the low number for the 2.4GHz and the high one for the 5GHz; add another 10%-15% to the 5GHz for the 6GHz band:
- A thin, porous wall (wood, sheetrock, drywall, etc.) will block between 5% and 30% of Wi-Fi signals — a router’s range will be much shorter when placed next to it.
- A thick porous wall: 20% to 40%.
- A thin nonporous wall (concrete, metal, ceramic tile, brick with mortar, etc.): 30% to 50%.
- A thick nonporous wall: 50% to 90%.
#2 and #3 apply to most walls in residential homes. #4 is the case of condos in high-rises or walls around bathrooms.
Again, these numbers are just ballpark figures, but you can use them to gauge how far the signal will reach when you place a Wi-Fi broadcaster at a specific spot in your home. A simple rule is that more walls mean worse coverage: generally, a single wall will reduce the signal by approximately 30%.
That said, in real life, when all adverse elements are taken into account and depending on the situation and where you stand relative to the broadcaster, we need to discount the theoretical ranges mentioned above by 40% to 90% to get a broadcaster’s realistic coverage.
Three bad excuses for Wi-Fi router replacement
And there are “bad” reasons to purchase things you don’t need. Here are a few examples when it comes to Wi-Fi routers:
- I want to stay on the cutting edge and “future-proof” my home: Generally, future-proofing doesn’t exist (with the Ubiquiti UniFi Dream Machine Beast being the only and very expensive exception). Case in point: Wi-Fi 7 is just a couple of years old, and Wi-Fi 8 is almost here.
- Because “I found a great deal”: It’s only great if you need a new router. If your current one works well, getting a new one, even at a deal, only means money down the drain. Plus, the act harms the environment.
- I’ve used mine for a few years already: A Wi-Fi router has no expiration date.
Again, as long as your current router works for your needs, there’s no need to replace it — not until your situation changes and you require more bandwidth, features, or both.
Wi-Fi Router replacement: The takeaway
You can replace your router at any time — it’s up to you to handle your money and your time however you see fit. But it only makes sense to spend resources on things that work for your needs or immediately provide tangible improvements you expect.
Getting a new Wi-Fi router just because you feel compelled or pressured to do it, for no practical reason, is a waste of precious resources, not to mention the unnecessary e-waste. But you’ve made up your mind? Bookmark this regularly updated top-5 page for the best routers and mesh systems you can confidently bring home today.
Hi Dong,
I have discovered yours site few weeks ago as I am looking to replace my RT ac68u which is now EOL.
It has been working rock solid for around 10 years now.
But after reading your article I wonder if I really need to replace it.
My concern is regarding security. I use the RT ac68u only to get better wifi signal and have a guest wifi.
It is plugged to my ISP modem.
Is it considered WAN or LAN ?
Is the router safe if not connected directly to internet ?
Same question if used as a mesh node ? I guess is is as it is used on LAN, is that right ?
I don’t have much knowledge, maybe it is basic stuff.
Hope I don’t bother you 😀
Looking forward to read from you.
It looks like you’re adding it to your ISP-provided gateway. In that case, you can turn it into the access point mode and keep using it until it dies. But it’s your call when it comes to replacing hardware.
Hi Dong,
Thank you for your answer.
After reading carefully the article you mentioned I learned a lot.
I’m in fact in a double Nat configuration.
Devices connected to ISP modem have a different ip range than the ones connected to the Asus router.
in this situation is the Asus router invisible from internet ?
Sylvain
Yes, Sylvain, but it also invisible if you use it as an access point in which case it’ll work simply as a Wi-Fi broadcaster. For your case, it’s best to turn the Asus router into the access point mode as shown here so that you’ll have a single NAT network.
Dong, can you please clarify something for me. When i save the settings on my Asus RT88U it warns me before clicking on the SAVE box. this is what it says:
“Click on this checkbox if you want to share the config file for debugging. Since the original password in the config file will be removed, please do not import the file into your router.”
Dong, unless i am going nuts… highly likely at 81, i seem to recall you mentioning in various articles that the router config files can be shared by different units. I would like to upload the existing ASUS RT AC88U file into a new Asus RT BE88U unit.
But the warning not to do this, as copied directly from the RTAC88URT88U screen, worries me. Can you please clarify this for me.
I bought the RTBE88U, as it will likely be the last router i’ll ever buy B4 my time is up.
A final point: I am aware of the risk of sticking the MERLIN firmware on it. (small, indeed, but cannot be totally excluded).
would you do this if you were in my position?
Dong, may i thank you for your patience and willingness to answer questions. I am more grateful than this note can ever hope to express.
Albert.
You check that box *only* when you want to share the back up file with Asus for troubleshooting, Albert. Generally, leave that box unchecked for normal backups. And yes, you can load that backup file into almost any other Asus router for the applicable settings to be ported over.
I haven’t tried Merlin with ASUSWrt 5.0 but either is fine.
You’re doing great! 🙂
Doug.
Thank you for reading. Your table is so very helpful, on a sunny day with the wind in my back, i might see 40-50 MB download. ( am in the middle of nowhere and my signal comes from a mast 11 km away to a sat dish, piped thro 100 meters of Cat5E).
My trusted old Asus ( The RT 88U, ) has been running since 2016. And continues to do so till this very day. I was very tempted to get the RT BE88U. Just in case my old Asus bites the dust. i will postpone this now as the old girl still runs like a dream. I will forever stay with the 8 channel Asus units and i am happy Asus still makes those.
Doug, thank you again for yr informative and detailed post. i am grateful to you.
👍
The name is Dong, though. 🙂
Dong, here is a question I didn’t see addressed. I have an older (5+ years old) Asus RT-AX88U router that is still going strong. I have no need for a new router, but I have never had a router last this long (after a long series of Asus routers and other brands that never lasted over 4 years before this time. Perhaps this is because I have lots of IOT things that put a load on the routers I have owned. I have 82 devices connected (including 9 security cameras, 2 video doorbells, 2 streaming TVs at any given time, and various other light switches. sprinklers, and light bulbs, door locks, etc. that add up to 82 devices). Anyway, the Asus GT-AXE16000 is on sale right now for $449, so does it make sense to buy a router in advance of when needed when the new router is on sale just to have it on hand for when the old router dies? Or should I expect many more good years with my trusty RT-AX88U and not bother. (Usually the GT-AXE16000 is $100 more than this price, which is why I am considering an advance purchase.) With my luck my router will become unreliable next week and I will pay $550 ($100 more) for the GT-AXE16000 as I will need to buy it when not on sale.
No, P, it doesn’t make sense. Don’t buy something just because it’s on sale. More here.
Great article, Dong!
This and a few other articles of yours I read have been very helpful in helping me decide what to. I had been debating heavily lately the merits of Wifi 7 vs 6e and I agree, 7’s “benefits” really don’t seem to be worth the cost right now. I could but the difference toward some switches and other equipment.
I’m looking at going to a full 2.5 Gb wired backbone and adding some 2.5 Gb switches for my lab and the extenders. While the rented Fios CR1000A does most of what I want to and has the right ports, I found that it and DHCP servers REALLY don’t get along if extenders are involved. Plus the extenders only have GigE ports. Ditching those has me looking for a better solution.
Only wildcard with 7 now is that I ran across your article about MSI’s Roamii system that seems to be very attractively priced – better than the ET12 system I’ve been looking at. I’m looking forward to your review on it. But with their cheap price and unknown specs, do you think MSI will shake up the Wifi market with the Roamii or will this be a case of “you get what you pay for”?
Thanks!
Judging from MSI’s existing Wi-Fi routers, I’d not hold my breath for their mesh systems.
Good to know. Thanks!
👍
Doug. My compliments. Excellently researched and documented article. Still running my “ye olde Asus RT AC 88U”. this router is NEVER switched off and runs 24/7/365 and has done so since it arrived those many years ago. Its 8 ports are a life saver.
I have no need for faster speeds and have no 5G clients.
Your great article should be made MANDATORY reading for those that think that newer is always better.
Albert.
👍
Hi Dong,
If I have a GT-AXE16000 as my main router (very stable) and I add a BE98 (non Pro as I live in AU) as a mesh node (until I consider it stable and Merlin firmware is available) I was wondering how the 6 Ghz radio would behave ?
Would I have WIFI 7 out of the BE98 or would it downgrade to 6E of the main router?
That depends on which is used for backhauling, Mario. But chances are you’ll get Wi-Fi 7, still not a good combo.
Should have mentioned…. always wired backhaul !
I think it’ll work to an extent but generally mixing Wi-Fi 7 and older standards is not good. You’ll lose all of Wi-Fi 7’s features.
thank you , understood. I will work towards eliminating the GT-AXE 16000 when budget permits.
👍
Should have mentioned…. wired backhaul between the two. I thought being almost identical other than the 6E vs 7 on the 6 Ghz that it would be a good combo.
Inevitably I will swap them around to make the BE98 the router.
Hi Dong,
I recently found out my Asus Zenwifi CT8 was declared end of life by Asus. It still works well for me but I’m concerned about the lack of security updates.
I agree with what you said in the article though, that really all routers have the potential for security flaws and I shouldn’t be overly concerned unless there is some known vulnerability that won’t be fixed.
My question is how do I keep track of that? Is there a good website that lists these found issues or do I have to periodically do web searches for my router model number and/or firmware version to find any of these ‘known’ flaws.
Is that a valid reason to upgrade? Not that an unsupported piece of hardware is necessarily less secure but if there is a security hole discovered, the router manufacturer would probably learn about it and fix a supported model quicker than I would know to stop using my old model.
As I mentioned in the post, you’ll hear about it if there’s something serious. There are lots of “experts” out there standing by to sensationalize any known vulnerability. If you’re really concerned, keep an eye on the AiProtection feature or get an add-on firewall unit, such as the Firewalla Blue.
In most cases, I’d not worry about it, but it’s your call.
Thanks for this amazing article.
I had a similar question to Nick as I had some concerns about security updates for the RT-AC68U I’m currently using that is now EoL (mainly if there is somewhere that would list/report if there was a major security issue).
I’ve never used a router that was EoL before (I guess I’ve been lucky with the routers I’ve bought as they’ve had some of the longest support ever for home routers – I have used a couple of ISP routers, but not for very long).
I previously had the RT-AC86U and was happy with that, as it worked well for me overall as far as WiFi goes and also had most of the features I wanted (Wireguard VPN client support being the only thing it didn’t have), but unfortunately I woke up one morning and it had failed, so I ended up going back to the AC68U that I kept as a spare. I sort of started scrambling around trying to find something else when reading it went EoL, but am more at ease now to keep using it. I thought I’d come here to see if there was any articles about this stuff, and as usual, you have covered it.
I do want to upgrade due to wanting a few features that my current router doesn’t support, but I will now take my time until one of the routers I am looking at gets to a price point I can afford/be happy with paying. I don’t think I need to be in a hurry.
I’m also not opposed to a secondhand older model such as the RT-AX86U Pro, but can’t seem to find any here in AU at a decent price.
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Hi Dong, There was actually one question I just thought of. Maybe I might need to replace the router sooner than I’d like.
I currently have a 100Mbps downstream connection, but have purchased my first 1000Mbps connection that is due to be activated next week (I’ll be connecting via Ethernet to the Router). I know the AC68U has 1Gbps WAN port, but since it’s an older router, is it likely to be able to handle a 1Gbps connection? Even if I only get up to 900Mbps, I’d be happy with that, but I wonder if the hardware can handle that? I guess I will find out next week.
If I have to upgrade sooner, though, the other models I’m looking at as far as Asus go is : GT-AX6000 (the RT-AX88U Pro isn’t available here in AU, otherwise, this would be my first choice as I don’t love the aesthetics of the GT-AX6000 😉 ), RT-BE88U and RT-BE86U.
Main features/things I’m looking for it at least one 2.5Gbps WAN port and one 2.5Gbps LAN port, WireGuard VPN client support, VPN Fusion/VPN Director (if using Merlin), and Merlin support. Would those above models I listed by the only ones in that price point that have all those features, or have I missed any? I guess Asuswrt-Merlin support isn’t a must, so that opens up the RT-BE92U. All are currently out of my price range, but I’ve got some alerts set up on Amazon if the price drops to what I can afford to/willing to pay for whatever particular model.
I’m also interested in the RT-AX86U Pro if I can find one secondhand (only drawback is it only has the one 2.5Gbps port), but I’d be OK with that if getting it for a decent price. It has everything else I’d want. I wouldn’t want to buy brand new at full price, though, as the price isn’t much less here compared to all those other models I listed above. I did see a preowned GT-AX6000 yesterday, but when I asked about it today, I was told it was already sold.
You want an Asus router with Multi-Gig ports, John. So:
1. One of those on this entry-level list (and their alternatives — follow the Read More link!). Or
2. One of those on this top-tier list (and their alternatives)
I have no comment on costs since I don’t keep tabs on prices and I live in a different market from yours.
Good luck!
Hi Dong, thanks.
No, I didn’t expect you to keep up with any pricing, that’s more up to me since I am the one looking to buy, plus different country, so I definitely didn’t expect you to know any pricing. Was just sort of saying the prices here in AU aren’t as good as what you guys in the US have the same models for.
I’ll have a look at those lists. So click on the Read More Link and I’ll get more info.
Brilliant. This has really helped me think things out. My biggest challenge is connectivity, not speed. My xmas lights has put RSSI of some of my devices to the edge of operating.
My reason for purchasing would be to put another mesh node but in reality, a 50Euro extender would do the job of a 300Euro mesh node for the need of a couple mbs for a 2.4GHz device.
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I completely agree with this article. Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, I found it necessary to upgrade my Apple Airport Extreme router to a mesh one, ensuring a stable signal for video conferencing in my garage. Although I opted for a WiFi 6 router, I now realize that a WiFi 5 router with better specifications would have been a more cost-effective choice. The majority of my IoT devices still operate on WiFi 4, and only a few use WiFi 6. Additionally, enabling WPA3 on those older devices prevents them from connecting to the router.
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good article yeah there is no future proofing as newer wifi standards are on the horizon👍🏿
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You are the most down to earth and practical human I have ever read about in my years of engineering. You have the common sense of not glorifying technology to the point where common folk are fooled into buying technology they don’t understand.
Keep it up
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Hello, this was a good and easy to read article.
But I’m still debating which one to purchase the ac86u for 110$ or the 140$ ax58u. I’m just so on the fence, with on my Mac air thats wifi 6
Here are the reviews, Stevenph: RT-AC86U vs RT-AX58U.
Regarding your statement “A Wi-Fi router has no expiration date,” there effectively is an expiration date due to eventual lack of patching, right? I have a TP-Link Archer C9 v1 which I bought in 2016 and is still working great, but it hasn’t had a FW update in over 2 years — I’d find it hard to believe it doesn’t have any security vulnerabilities (though hopefully minor). Would be nice to have guidelines such as X days after last FW release, etc. or if manufacturers gave EOL notices like software software companies do.
Enjoy reading your site!
No, Matthew. That logic applies to when a vulnerability becomes known as mentioned in the post.
{…} It seems we can pretty confidently “know” that any firmware older than 2021 is full of vulnerabilities. Router companies aren’t going to test/publicize that older routers are vulnerable unless they’re forced to. Whether anyone’s interested in exploiting those vulnerabilities in our home router is another thing. Wish there was an easy way to independently validate a firmware, or that routers had monthly security update schedules like Android and Windows do.
Give this post a serious read, and feel free to get a new router or two if you want. I’m not here to debate stuff you read elsewhere on the Internet. 🙂
Bought two used AirPort Extreme 6th gen. Wifive or ac works flawlessly with these even connected to FITH 1.5 GB. Wireless
connection as mesh. I still remember your review at their release.
Time flies!
Yeah, I remember those, Micheal. They were so overpriced at the time. Time flies, indeed…