Wi-Fi Router Explained and How to Pick a Perfect One for Yourself

Asus RT AX88U vs RT AX89X
Dong Ngo | Dong Knows Tech The first step in knowing how to pick the best Wi-Fi router for your home is finding out what a router can or cannot do.

A big part of the emails galore I get daily includes those asking for a specific router or mesh recommendation. Some readers even sent me a detailed sketch of their home — you know who you are! Everyone wants to pick up that perfect Wi-Fi router.

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I hate ignoring people and entertain many of those emails. And that generally works out. Sometimes it doesn’t, though.

Dong’s note: I first published this lengthy piece on May 17, 2020, and updated on August 27 to make it even longer by adding more relevant information based on additional questions and requests.

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It’s all about networking

A while ago, I got a message from John — not his real name — telling me semi-jokingly that he blamed me for how his wife was unhappy. “Your recommended router didn’t work as we had hoped, and I’m now in big trouble!” he said.

And with that, it just reoccurred to me something I’ve always thought of getting a Wi-Fi router: It’s like finding a partner — as in dating. Both are networking, after all.

So, I’m going to try to set the right expectations in this post while offering some tips on how to pick the best Wi-Fi router. There’s no guarantee, but when you’re through, you will likely be able to choose the right one, by yourself, at the first try.

A closer look at a home Wi-Fi router

To pick the right Wi-Fi router, you first need to understand its capabilities and its limitation.

But there’s one thing all routers have in common: Each creates a local network for multiple devices to work together. How many exactly?

The total devices a home router supports: It’s wired vs. Wi-Fi bandwidth

Technically, a home router can host 254 devices, including itself.

(That’s because IPv4‘s subnets max out at 255 with one address being used for a special purpose. But that’s too much unnecessary technical detail, don’t you think?)

So generally, you can connect up to 253 devices to a home router. Realistically, though, this number is significantly lower. It’s a matter of bandwidth.

Wired bandwidth

A home router tends to have just a few (usually four) LAN ports. This number of ports translates into the total amount of wired devices the router can handle concurrently.

You add more devices to the network via a switch. But in this case, the switch itself adds more bandwidth. Two devices connecting directly to a switch will use that switch’s resources, and speed grade, for the connection between them. In this case, other than providing the IP addresses, the router doesn’t do much more.

That said, if you choose to run network cables and are willing to add a couple of switches, your network can indeed host all 253 parties at the same time. And each will connect at their max possible speed — each network port on a switch has its own bandwidth that’s not shared with others.

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The wiring inside a cable is in a somewhat controlled environment, separate from the elements. As a result, a network cable can almost always deliver the speed of the connection standard in full, with maximum efficiency.

Here’s a rough analogy: If your data is water, using network cables is like hooking a garden hose to a faucet to get water directly to an inflatable pool. You know for sure that 100 percent of water coming out from the source will get to the destination.


The thing is we don’t have that many wired devices. In fact, a home Wi-Fi router nowadays mostly serves as a Wi-Fi broadcaster.

Wi-Fi bandwidth

You can read more on Wi-Fi bandwidth in this post about dual-band vs. tri-band. However, the gist is that each Wi-Fi frequency band’s ceiling speed is its total bandwidth, which is shared between connected clients. And Wi-Fi has terrible efficiency.


Wi-Fi suffers significantly from the elements.

Re-using the inflatable pool example above, it’s now like you hook a spray nozzle into the hose and pump water into your pool over the air from a distance.

In this case, even when you use the most focused setting, chances are you’ll lose some water due to wind, splash, and evaporation. But in return, you can use this technique to (inefficiently) fill a few pools simultaneously.


That said, on paper, a 5 GHz 4×4 Wi-Fi 5 band caps at 1733 Mbps theoretically. And you’ll get that cap speed when there’s only one connected client. If you have ten active clients, each will cap at 173.3 Mbps, or 86.65 Mbps with twenty active clients, and so on. And, then the sustained real-world speed of each will be even (much) lower.

As a result, a router can handle only so many active wireless clients at a time, and you can’t add more Wi-Fi bandwidth to it — more below.

For this reason, it’s always a good idea to get a top-tier or tri-band router even though you might have all mid-tier clients. That’s especially true when you have super-fast Internet.

Generally, a single home Wi-Fi router, even a top-notch one, can handle no more than 100 active clients — most vendors recommend 50 or fewer. Note, though, that only active devices use up the router’s wireless bandwidth.

Does using a mesh system means you can use more concurrent clients

You can find out more in this post about mesh systems, but generally, the acceptable total amount of active devices depends on the mesh’s hardware and the way you set it up.

Dong Ngo | Dong Knows Tech Picking the right Wi-Fi router: More hardware units don’t necessarily translate into more bandwidth.

Similar to a switch, each mesh hub does have Wi-Fi bandwidth of its own. However, all devices connected to a mesh point share the same single backhaul link, which connects the hub to the network.

In a wireless setup, the backhaul of a dual-band mesh system has much less bandwidth than that of a tri-band system. And a mesh system using wired backhaul generally has the most bandwidth.

Assuming we’re using hardware of the same Wi-Fi grade, and if your clients are spread out equally in between the mesh points, then your mesh network sure can handle more concurrent clients than when you use a single router.

But a mesh system, which is essentially a router with a few extenders, still has a cap of 253 devices. And in reality, you probably should have only half of the amount, at most.

How can I limit the amount of clients in a local network?

Each router comes with a fixed IP address pool that determines the number of clients that can connect to the network. By default, some routers set this at 50, others at 100, or even all 253.

But you can change this value via the router’s DHCP server setting. Just log in to the router’s web interface (or use its mobile app), navigate to the LAN section, and change the value of the IP Pool Starting Address and IP Pool Ending Address accordingly. Note that the wording of these two might vary slightly between networking vendors.

Dong Ngo | Dong Knows Tech These settings of the HDCP Server will allow 253 devices to connect to the network. Note the first IP address, 192.168.2.1, is reserved for the router itself.

These values are the last group of digits in the router’s IP address pool, which ranges between 2 and 254. Subtracting the starting number from the ending number, then adding 1 to the result will give you the number of total clients that can connect to the router.

So, pick the number that works for your situation. It’s generally a good idea to have a significantly larger pool size than the total amount of clients — sometimes a client might use two IP addresses for a short time. Just make sure the starting address is lower than the ending one and the range of the two must not include the address of the router itself.

IP address assignment: Dynamic vs. manual

Note, though, that this address pool is not super strict and only applies to clients that get an IP address dynamically via the router’s DHCP server function, which happens right after you plug a cable into a device or enter the Wi-Fi password. It doesn’t affect manually assigned addresses.

So, for example, if you set the IP pool in the 192.168.2.100 and 192.168.2.200 range, you can manually set an IP of a client to be 192.168.2.99. That client will still connect to the router successfully, as long as there’s no other device already with that IP address.

Unless there’s a specific reason, it’s a good idea not to assign an IP manually, which is quite a pain to do anyway. If you need to make sure a device always gets the same IP address, you can use the router’s IP reservation feature instead.

What if I want to provide the Internet to more than 253 devices?

While you can’t use more than 253 devices in a local home network, you sure can share a single Internet connection to unlimited parties.

It’s quite simple, just add more routers to the network, using double NAT setups. You can connect multiple routers to the existing one or daisy-chain them. Either way, each additional router can host another 253 devices.

While members of a local network hosted by one router can’t talk to those belonging to the network of another router, they all can share the Internet access from the very first router.

Keep this trick in mind in case you need to provide Internet access to a large party. Just make sure your broadband connection is fast enough for everyone.

If I combine two dual-band routers, via a network cable, would that be the same as having a tri-band router?

While this seems to make sense, unfortunately, no, it wouldn’t. In fact, you shouldn’t do that at all. That’s because the same each Wi-Fi band uses the same channels.

Dong Ngo | Dong Knows Tech It’s never a good idea to clump multiple routers, no matter how expensive, together.

More on bands and channels are available in this post, but if you can quickly imagine a Wi-Fi band as a freeway, then channels are the lanes on the road.

A dual-band Wi-Fi router consists of two distinctive sets of channels. One set belongs to the 2.4 GHz band and the other to the 5 GHz band.

Depending on your locale and hardware, the number of available channels on each band will vary. But generally, the 2.4 GHz band includes 14 channels from 1 to 14 (the last three are not available in the U.S.), and the 5 GHz has channels from 36 to 165. Again, not all of these channels are available due to one reason or another.

A tri-band router, which has an additional 5 GHz band, arranges its 5 GHz channels in two distinctive groups — lower channels and upper channels — one for each band.

The lower group belongs to the first 5 GHz band and generally consists of channels 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, and 64. The second 5 GHz band has the upper channels, generally including 149, 153, 157, 161, and 165.

So in a tri-band router, the two 5 GHz bands don’t duplicate each other, they work side by side. It’s like when you widen a freeway by adding more space and doubling the width of each lane.

On the other hand, all dual-band Wi-Fi broadcasters’ 5 GHz band uses the same set of channels. As a result, putting two together is like putting one freeway right on top of another.

You can’t do that with a real freeway, but that often happens in the world of radio frequencies, like when there are many routers or access points in a small area. The result is interference and congestion; there are no benefits at all.

So having multiple Wi-Fi broadcasters clumped up at a spot is something we want to avoid.

Do I need to care about Wi-Fi routers’ antennas?

All Wi-Fi routers — any radio broadcasters or receivers, for that matter — have antennas. If you don’t see them, that’s because they are hidden inside or blended in with the device’s other hardware parts.

The antennas convert data signals into radio waves and vice versa. Without them, there’s no Wi-Fi. And that’s likely all you need to know about them.

Dong Ngo | Dong Knows Tech There’s no antenna sticking out of this UniFi Dream Machine, but it’s still an excellent router.

Do more antennas mean better Wi-Fi speeds?

Not necessarily. Generally, a router needs one antenna for each of its band – so a dual-band router will have two antennas. After that, the additional antennas are for extra features, such as MU-MIMO, Beamforming, and so on.

But even then, more antennas don’t necessarily mean more features. Also, the number of antennas doesn’t change the range of a router.

In other words, they change the type of coverage but not the coverage itself. So more antennas might mean faster speed grades, but not always so.

That’s because ultimately, it’s how the router’s firmware handles its antennas that matters — something end-users can’t interfere. And a Wi-Fi connection’s speed takes two; the client also needs to support the feature and speed grade of the router for the goodness to happen.

In short, there’s no need to get too hung up on the number of the little poles sticking out of our Wi-Fi box.

Standard antennas vs. directional antennas

All home Wi-Fi broadcasters use standard omnidirectional antennas. Each antenna broadcasts signals outward somewhat equally like a sphere. For this reason, you want to place the router as central as possible to get the best coverage.

There are directional antennas. These are special ones that direct the signals toward a certain angle. Most of these are outdoor devices designed to deliver Wi-Fi over a vast open space.

It sure seems like a good idea to get a directional antenna for a sprawling home, but that doesn’t always work well, if at all. That’s because, among other things, you need to get antennas designed for the specific router.

Most vendors don’t make directional antennas for their home routers, and third-party ones don’t usually work as you might hope. That’s not to mention these antennas tend to be bulky and require to be mounted in a specific way.

How to I angle the antennas for best performance?

It seems that if you set the antennas at certain angles that would affect the router’s coverage. Well, that’s kind of true technically, but in reality that doesn’t make much of a difference, if at all, in consumer-grade broadcasters.

Dong Ngo | Dong Knows Tech Feel free to angle a router’s antennas however you want.

The reason is if changing antennas’ position creates an effect, that effect would take place at the end of the router’s range. There, the signal is already too weak, the little fluctuation, therefore, results in no meaningful Wi-Fi experience.

That’s not to mention you can’t even mess with the antennas in many routers, like those with internal or non-swivel-able ones, such a the ZenWiFi AX or Archer C5400X.

So when it comes to a router’s antennas, just don’t remove or collapse them — keep them opened up. After that, feel free to put them at any angles you’d like. What’s more important is making sure you place your Wi-Fi broadcaster well — at a high up, open place.


How to pick the best wi-fi router for your home

Now that we’re clear on Wi-Fi routers, let’s find out how you can find exactly what you need.

Set your priorities straight

The first thing you should do is understand the fact your Wi-Fi router is by far the most important gadget in your home. Without a well-functioning one, all other fancy and expensive toys — TVs, tablets, laptops, etc. — are kind of useless.

That’s not to mention a good router can also keep you safe from hackers, malware, phishing, etc, 24 hours a day, 7 days week.

Having a good router means you will not need to tend to it regularly. So it’s a good idea to pay adequate attention upfront. Think of the router as running water or the foundation of your home.

In short, don’t be cheap, invest where it matters! Considering your Wi-Fi equipment’s essential (and often underrated) role, however much you pay for it, it’s already really affordable.

Don’t expect magic!

I mean it. I’ve gotten a lot of questions about which router that will “solve the dead zone issues” or “will, for sure, cover my entire place.” Many of you watch too many commercials.

Getting your home blanketed with Wi-Fi is not easy. Here’re a couple of things to keep in mind when getting a new or replacement router.

A new router is not necessarily better in terms of Wi-Fi coverage

Wi-Fi range has more to do with the frequency band (5 GHz vs. 2.4 GHz). So, broadcasters of different router tiers or standards only differ slightly in terms of coverage.

In other words, upgrading to Wi-Fi 6, in and of itself, won’t bring about a huge change in coverage. In fact, a mid-tier Wi-Fi 6 router might have a shorter range than a top-tier Wi-Fi 5 one.

On the flip side, if your existing (old) router is working out to some extent, getting a newer one (of a higher standard or tier) sure will make things better.

Better Wi-Fi won’t make your Internet better

Internet and Wi-Fi are two different things. If you have a super-fast broadband connection — like Gigabit-class one — then faster Wi-Fi will definitely help. But if you have a modest plan, something of 100 Mbps or slower, chances are upgrading your Wi-Fi won’t bring about any difference in terms of the online experience.

A wireless connection takes two

That’s right. You need devices of the same standard to enjoy a new router’s performance grade. Keep in mind that when talking about a Wi-Fi standard, the vendor always assumes all devices involved are of the same Wi-Fi tier.

That said, if you use a bunch of old Wi-Fi 4 clients, a brand-new top-notch Wi-Fi 6 router won’t make things better. In fact, it might make things a bit worse.

Key to pick a Wi-Fi Router: Figuring out what you need

This is the critical part of getting the right Wi-Fi equipment.

One reader wrote: “We don’t need a super-duper one. We’re basic users. We just surf the web, stream movies, kids play games, once in while we make video calls. The usual stuff, nothing special.” Well, hello, that’s almost all there is to home networking.

The point is, you might need a better router than you think you do. That said, there are three things to consider when getting a Wi-Fi router: Coverage, speed, and features. (Note how I didn’t include the cost.)

Picking a Wi-Fi router with the right coverage: How big is your place?

The bigger your shindig, the larger Wi-Fi coverage you’ll need.

Small home

If you live in a small home of 1000 ft² (93 m²) or so, congratulations! Your situation is super easy since almost any router will be able to blanket it. You likely won’t need to worry about where to place it, either.

Medium home

With a home twice the size, of around 2000 ft² (186 m²), things start to get complicated. If there are not many walls and the house is in a somewhat round or square shape, a single router might still do.

But if there are thick walls, perhaps it’s time to think of additional hardware units. Walls are hugely problematic for wireless signals.

Large home

If your home is of 3000 ft² (279 m²) or larger, a Wi-Fi system is a must. It’s now a question of which system and that depends on how fast you want the network to be.

By the way, in any home, running network cables is by far the best way to extend your network. It gives you a lot of options in terms of hardware and costs.

The shape and content of your home

Again, if a home is somewhat round or square, a single Wi-Fi broadcast, placed in the middle, can likely deliver signal to every corner. But if the place is sprawling, has an L shape or with a few floors, chances are you’ll need multiple hardware units.

Apart from walls, large objects are problematic, too. Generally, more walls and large objects equal reduced coverage, meaning you’ll need more broadcasters.

By the way, again, there’s no or little difference in Wi-Fi coverage between Wi-Fi 5 and Wi-Fi 6 when you use a single router. As a mesh system, however, the latter is far superior.

Dong Ngo | Dong Knows Tech As a mesh system Wi-Fi 6 hardware is a lot more capable than Wi-Fi 5 counterparts.

Picking the Wi-Fi router with the right Wi-Fi speed: How fast is our Internet?

Once you’ve got the coverage down, the next item is the speed. More specifically, the speed you can afford because faster is always better.

Since most of us use Wi-Fi as a convenient way to access the Internet, it makes sense to use the broadband connection as the base requirement of this speed.

A couple of years ago, with a typical residential internet connection averaging around 30 Mbps or slower, you didn’t have to worry much about Wi-Fi rates.

Nowadays with broadband connections being available at hundreds of Mbps, or even Gigabit (1000 Mbps), finding a Wi-Fi solution capable of delivering that can deliver that can be a challenge.

Here’s the truth, you have to pick a top-notch Wi-Fi 6 router with a Wi-Fi 6 client to get the sustained Wi-Fi speed of more than 1 Gbps. The majority of existing routers and especially clients can achieve real-world Wi-Fi speeds of 800 Mbps at most. Again, that’s the total bandwidth of a Wi-Fi band.

How to figure out the Wi-Fi speed you need

So here’s the rough calculation: I’d give each person a base required speed of 30 Mbps — that’s the rate needed to stream a 4K movie smoothly. Now, assume that you have unlimited Internet bandwidth, your Wi-Fi needs to deliver 30 Mbps to everyone in the house simultaneously.

That said, if you have five people in the house (let’s assume they are always getting online at the same time,) you’ll need 150 Mbps Wi-Fi; 10 people, you now need 300 Mbps, and so on. Of course, you can adjust the base speed, making it higher or lower than 30 Mbps depending on your situation.

Now compare that needed Wi-Fi speed against a router’s real-world Wi-Fi performance.

(By the way, all test scores on Dong Knows Tech are real-world sustained speeds. Each review will give you an idea of what’s you can expect from a Wi-Fi solution in terms of its bandwidth. Also, using an app, or the Internet, to test Wi-Fi never shows the correct bandwidth of your router.)

Dong Ngo | Dong Knows Tech The Asus GT-AX11000 has a lot of useful features, including Network Protection.

Things to note in picking Wi-Fi routers’ features: What do you want from your network?

The final item is the features of Wi-Fi routers. Geeks like me probably like one with tons of features, while some home users just want something they can plug in and forget about it. The rest is somewhere in between.

Here’s the thing, you can get a feature-rich router and choose to use it with the simple default settings. But if you get a spartan one, there’s no way to add more features or settings to it when need be.

At the simplest level, though, all Wi-Fi solutions allow you to change the Wi-Fi network’s name and password. After that, the following are popular features and settings to consider. They are not all you can collectively find in Wi-Fi routers but relevant to most home’s needs.

Wi-Fi routers’ basic and necessary features and settings

These are settings that will come in handy in all home networks. Most, though not all, routers have these.

  • A web user interface: A web page that allows access to the router’s in-depth settings and features. Any routers without a web interface will be lacking in features and settings.
  • User-accessible DHCP server: All routers have the DHCP function, but only on those allowing users to access it you can customize the IP address, as well as the address pool, as mentioned above.
  • IP reservation: This allows a connected device always to get the same IP address. Some clients and applications need this to work correctly.
  • In-depth Wi-Fi customization: Users have the option to customize the router’s Wi-Fi network to their liking.
  • Guest network: A type of virtual Wi-Fi network that has access to the Internet but not your local resources.
  • Quality of Service (QoS): This is a handy feature that allows users to prioritize Internet bandwidth.

Wi-Fi routers’ advanced and desirable features

These features are generally available in high-end routers.

  • Dynamic DNS: A necessary tool for any remote access applications.
  • Port forwarding: This allows users to open specific ports for individual clients or applications. It’s a must if you run any server in your home network, including certain types of IoT devices.
  • Mesh-ready: This allows turning the router into a mesh system. The most prominent example is the AiMesh of Asus, or Synology Mesh, or TP-Link’s limited OneMesh.
  • VPN server: The ability to work as a VPN server. When coupled with Dynamic DNS, this feature is a boon for frequent travelers who want to dial home or just want to keep their device safe when using a public network.
  • Web-filtering: Commonly known as Parental Controls, this feature allows users to filter certain (types of) websites for a (group of) computers. Most routers have some flavor of web-filtering, but the level of robustness can vary a great deal from one to another.
  • Online protection: The ability to detect and filter out online threats (malware, phishing, virus, etc.). Typical examples are Network Protection (part of AiProtection, available in all Asus routers), Antivirus (part of HomeCare, found in many TP-Link routers), and Armor (available in some Netgear products).
  • USB-related features: Available in routers with a USB port, these features include the ability to turn the router into a mini NAS server.
  • Game-related features: You can play the game with any router, especially one with QoS. However, some routers have even more to give pro-gamers an edge.

What you should avoid in a Wi-Fi routers

Not all features and settings are useful. The following are those I’d think twice before using.

Vendor-assisted remote management

This feature requires you to registered an account with the vendor and attach your router to that account. In return, you can manage our home network when you’re out and about.

This type of remote access is getting more and more popular with more vendors, such as TP-Link, Linksys, or Netgear, offering it as an option.

Any time you have to sign in with a vendor, that poses privacy risks. Also, you can get the same function via Dynamic DNS. That said, before you use one, make sure you trust the company’s privacy policy.

Vendor-dependent solutions

These devices are by far the worst in terms of features. They have very few of those listed above, if at all.

What makes them even less attractive is the fact that you have to have an account with the vendor, and you also have to sign in before you can control the router.

In other words, both your mobile device and your home network are connected to the vendor at all times, and you manage your home network through the vendor.

Privacy risks aside, this type of management means you do not truly own your router. When there’s no Internet connection, you can’t make changes to your home network. Or if for some reason, the vendor decides to no longer support the device, you’ll lose access to it.

Examples are those from Google (Nest Wi-Fi) and Amazon (Eero). These happen to be among the most easy-to-use, however, so it’s your call.

Best Wi-Fi solutions to consider

Below are the links to the regularly updated lists of best Wi-Fi routers and mesh systems I’ve reviewed. Check them out against what you’ve learned here, especially the performance numbers. Chances are you’ll find one that makes you happy.

How to pick the best Wi-Fi router: The takeaway

There you go. This post includes the answers to all the popular questions I’ve gotten so far about picking the right Wi-Fi router. Hopefully, from now on, I won’t need to make that exciting yet often challenging decision for anyone.

But finding that perfect Wi-Fi router is no doubt a particular task that requires knowing yourself first. And even then, just like in relationships, some of us might still end up with a couple of wrong choices before getting lucky.

One thing is for sure, though, it’s OK to take chances in home networking. Worse comes to worst; it’s comparatively painless to make a complete replacement. Take my word for it.

Found a typo? Please report by highlighting it and pressing Ctrl Enter Thank you! ❤️

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55 thoughts on “Wi-Fi Router Explained and How to Pick a Perfect One for Yourself”

  1. Hi Dong,

    I have a Synology mesh system. RT2600ac and (2) MR2200ac units.
    MR2200’s are wired backhauled.

    44 Wireless clients and 16-20 or so wired clients connecting at most times.
    4 switches are used in the system.

    Problem im having is that daily i see the switches get flooded with all ports blinking at a rapid steady rate and have to reboot the frist switch in the system (8port tp link unmanaged pro unit) at the patch panel to get it fixed and stable.

    I did check all cables end to end and patch panel runs with a fluke Microscanner 2 and verified everything is ok.

    Just dont understand why this happens daily. I dont see any obvious reason like a network loop in the system, but acts like a flooded broadcast on all switch ports.

    Any ideas appreciated on what might be next to check!!

    Love your articles, thanks!!

    Detail of connections below:

    Cable Modem MB8600
    >W1 Rt-2600ac >
    2nd Floor >P1 TP Link Switch 8 port SG108E
    >P2 >P1 TP Link Switch 16 Port SG1016DE (Room 1)
    >P2 Ooma IP Modem
    >P3-16 Various Devices
    >P3 Hoobs Server
    >P4 RJ-45 Jack (Room 2)
    >P5 RJ-45 Jack (Room 3)
    >P6 RJ-45 Jack (Room 4)
    FIRST FLOOR >P7 MR-2200ac Mesh Node WAN Port (Family Room)
    >P1 TP Link Switch 16 Port SG1016DE
    >P2-16 Various Devices
    >P8 MR-2200ac Mesh Node WAN Port (Garage)
    >P1 TP Link Switch 8 Port SG108E
    >P2-8 Various Devices

    Reply
    • You likely have a loop, Alan. Among other things, make sure you use only ONE port on the MR2200ac units to connect them to the switch.

      Reply
      • Hi Dong and thanks for replying!

        Each MR2200ac unit has it’s WAN port backbone cable connected back to the main router via a switch. (WAN PORT>SWITCH>ROUTER)

        Each MR2200ac unit has it’s LAN Port to another switch for additional ports for that location. (LAN PORT>SWITCH).

        Is that correct? I do have a graphic network diagram to share but cant see a place to upload that.

        Thanks again!

        Reply
  2. Hi Dong, like many I’ve been blessed to find your page during this “all online” season of life!

    Your comment: “But if you have a modest plan, something of 100 Mbps or slower, chances are upgrading your Wi-Fi won’t bring about any difference in terms of the online experience.”

    Since that is exactly my situation (100 Mbps is the “high-speed” broadband around here), and I see that in your reviews “Each review will give you an idea of what’s you can expect from a Wi-Fi solution in terms of its bandwidth,” even the “cheap” ones often support beyond that, it leaves me two possibilities:
    1) It doesn’t matter what I have; the Linksys EA3500 I’m using now is “good enough.”
    2) A better router or even mesh will improve end user quality over the 3500sqft of house I live in, for the 4 children attending school by Chromebook this year.

    Perhaps there is an article about that I haven’t gotten to yet?

    Reply
    • Happy to have you here, Steve. Hope you guys have been doing well!

      Your home is large, that’s the main issue. If it’s an open space, chances are it’s quite easy, but if it’s not, then you will likely need at least a 2-pack solution. The EA3500 is decent as a single router, if it kinda works for now (in terms of coverage), almost any routers on my recommendation lists (at the bottom of this post) will be better. But if it doesn’t, it’s time to think about a mesh. It’s best to run a network cable, in this case, you can get a dual-band system that supports wired backhaul. Otherwise, it’s a better idea to get a tri-band system.

      Reply
      • Thanks, I figured as much. A simple networking question: does it matter if there are switches between the router and satellite?
        For example, if I purchase synology Rt2600ac then run four LAN through my patch panel with one via a switch connecting to another switch across the house, where the mr2200ac would be plugged in? Or does it need direct connect via Ethernet cable for Ethernet backhaul? Note multiple other devices also connected to each switch.

        Reply
  3. Hello Dong! Thank you for these articles. I wanted to upgrade our equipment since we’re both working at home now and wife’s computer was having trouble staying connected. Your helpful articles made it so much easier. My selection expertise pretty much amounted to “the shiniest box with lots of numbers on it”. Your articles helped me make a better choice, being able to understand better what those numbers mean.
    Ended up replacing a Netgear CMD31T modem and an ASUS RT-N53 router with a Motorola MB8600 modem and a TP-link AX50 router. Oh what a difference it made! I have 150mbps service and was only getting about 40 maybe 50 mbps on Wi-Fi on a good day. Now getting triple digits on the 2.4 band and just about the full 150 on the 5ghz band. Even better, the 5ghz band covers the whole house, garage, and back patio! I don’t know if those mbps numbers are real based on your speed test article, but on the performance I can see (downloading, loading websites, gaming, etc.), this set up is scorching compared to what we had before. Connectivity is superior too. Everything is staying connected all the time.
    Can’t thank you enough Dong! Hoping you and your family are staying safe and healthy.

    Reply
    • Excellent, Brad! You should give yourself a pat on the back. You guys stay safe, too! Thanks for sharing, and you’re welcome! 🙂

      Reply
  4. thanks so much for your work – excellent reviews and advice. i am like ‘Twin’ i think – ~3200sf house, 2 levels 2 adults 2 kids etc. our fibre cable comes in at one end of the main floor of the house. i am considering the Asus AX-3000, perhaps with 2 linked, one up one down; one Asus RT-AX92U; or one TP AX6000.
    i live in Canada, prices are definitely higher than US. price range is between 320-400. i am fine with that.

    two concerns:
    – coverage with one router, given where the main router has to be located. The house is wired, though with Cat 5 cable[built in 2000];
    – and the better parental control. i read your reviews on that point and others. Short story is i cant really determine what ASUS lacks, compared to TP Link Archer.
    any thoughts?

    Reply
    • I’d go with the Asus, Jack. It has a lot more than the TP-Link in terms of features, with the latest firmware, the parental control is good, too, though I honestly don’t see the point in using one (I have two kids myself). With small kids, parents should set the example. Teenagers can easily bypass any control you put on them.

      Reply
  5. Dong, I enjoy your articles and when I can, I buy through your links. Will moving Wi-Fi clients to separate access point relive any stress on the router’s main function…..to be a router between my home networking devices and the IPS?

    I have an older ASUS RT-AC87R operating in Wi-Fi access point mode that is hardwired to an ASUS RX-AC88U that does all the main router functions. Would there be some benefit to the main router if most of the Wi-Fi traffic goes through the AC87R access point? There are one-to-two bars of signal difference between a typical device and the two Wi-Fi choices.

    I am thinking of use the older AC87R access point for older and slower devices. Then use the new AC88U for my only WiFi6 device and all tablets, phones that are heavy data users.

    Again, appreciate the website and your writing-style!

    Reply
  6. Dong,
    Can I take a US router and use it in Europe (Portugal)? Just wondering if the frequencies are the same and that there is not specific EU Routers made. – thank you for the time

    Reply
    • Yes, Fernando. I’ve done that and Asia, too. The hardware will automatically adjust its frequency when you change the locale. I’m more concerned about the shape of the power plug.

      Reply
  7. Dong – I have a 4000 sqft two story home. I run Gigabit AT&T Uverse from the AC5268 router/modem. I have wired backhaul capabilities on the ground floor only, with them essentially in the three corners of the house (modem being in the master closet). I have 5 people in the family with two heavy gamers and two stay at home workers. (3 kids who are all Zooming like crazy for School too!) First question is whether I can replace my AT&T router with another. Does AT&T force me to use their modem and just turn off their WIFI signal so it’s just the router feeding the new APs? I’d like to set up 3 APs at each wired (CAT 5) corner as I believe that will give me optimal coverage. What system would you recommend?

    Reply
  8. Hi Dong, just want to ask if Router specs (cpu) matters on the amount of users connected? currently i am using an archer c5 (AC1200) router, users consist of 6 mobile phones, 2 smart tvs and 1 PC. Problem is we are always having frequent wifi disconnection issue, and slow router connection speed. I read on some articles that we need a faster cpu on router to manage multiple connections. Im eyeing on the AX10 and C80 (both tplink). internet speed is not that important (we had 20mpbs connection anyway hahah) what would you advice?

    Thanks!

    Reply
    • Yes and no, Mark. Generally, more power means the router can do more, but that mostly applies to its features, like QoS, port forwarding, web-filtering and so on. The more complex the setting, the more taxing it is on the resources. Other than that, the amount of connected clients only affects the router’s bandwidth. But a router does need some minimum specs to work properly as a router. Yours is totally on the borderline, though, and so are most budget router. The A10 might be OK for 10 concurrent devices but if you wanna be sure get an AX3000 or higher specced router.

      Reply
  9. Hello Dong,

    Your articles are very useful – Thanks for that.
    I have Sky Hub Router kept in the hallway. We have medium sized house of 100 Meter Square with 3 bedrooms on the first floor level. Sky hub has the capability of 2.4/5GHz – I have a Budget of 100 GBP. I am confused on what I need.. A router, or an extender or an mesh system

    Please advise.

    Reply
    • Way to go, Andrew! Just pick one that fits your Wi-Fi needs. I’d say any on the lists I mentioned will work but get one that can handle your household’s size of users and your Internet speed.

      Reply
  10. Hi Dong

    I have spent a couple of hours reading reviews on your website, well written and very thorough.
    I currently have an old TP-Link Archer C7 and a AC1200 Wi-Fi Range Extender.
    There are in my 160sqm home 6 smart phones , one tablet, 3 Laptops,1 PC and 2 Firesticks all on 5Ghz
    One PC and one Raspberry Pi Plex server on ethernet in the same room, so I need two LAN plus 1 WAN.
    A bunch of smart plugs and lights etc on 2.4Ghz
    My broadband is 240Mbps down and 30 Mbps up. Upgrading to 500Mbps down and 50Mbps up

    My focus is on reliability and coverage. Speed and parental controls are second.
    The current network has become quite unreliable, drop-outs slow speeds etc.

    What would you recommend? I am in the EU and the budget would be about €300

    Thanks for your help.

    Reply
  11. Hi Dong,

    I am in the market for a router and I have been reading through your reviews. I must say that I am impressed with both the depth of the information as well as how you put your thoughts together. A really good and easy to understand!

    I live in a 2-story 3,000 sq ft home, there are 4 of us in the family with each of us doing a fair share of online streaming, and the usual internet browsing (shuttling between 2 devices each – laptop and phone).

    I was eyeing the ASUS AX3000 and the TP Link AX50 (both of which you reviewed), but someone at BestBuy also had me consider the Nighthawk AX1800 Mesh. I am coming from a dated Linkysys N router so anyone of these will be an upgrade. Which would you recommend? And if there was another choice, what model is that? I was looking at the WiFi 6 models because of the future scaling but should i opt for a WiFi router instead?

    Reply
    • I’d recommend the Asus, Twin. But for a mesh, you might want a tri-band one, unless you have wired backhaul (using network cables to link the broadcasters). For more on how to pick the best one for yourself, you can start with this post. It will give you a much better idea and understanding of what you’d need.

      Reply
  12. Hi, I love your reviews, thanks as always! QQ – would you recommend tri-band AC or dual-band AX for fast speed WiFi?

    Reply
  13. Dong, OSPs often require their modem for TV channel guide and remote access and stop providing this function when putting the OSP device in a Mode to turn the wireless off. But Even when taking an Ethernet feed directly to homeowner’s router before passing signal on to OSP router, the OSP router will be clustered nearby the homeowner’s preferred router, providing a channel overlap situation. How if at all can this be avoided?

    Reply
  14. Thank you so much, Dong. Again I have been reading to your reviews all day after your response.

    Which of the following configurations makes more sense to you in my case?

    1) Main router: Asus Blue Cave (on sale, 99USD right now)
    Access Points: A couple of TP-Link Omada AC1200 in-Wall (49USD right now)
    Placed as a star topology with the main router in the middle of the house

    2) A set of three TP-Link DecoX60 wired together

    The idea is to have an open system so we can add more hubs in the future as the house gets bigger.

    Thank you, Dong. Hope you are staying safe and healthy!

    Reply
  15. Hi Dong, I have been reading your extremely detailed reviews for about 2 weeks and I am impressed with all the thoughtful insights, this is, by far, the best I have seen, thank you.

    I am in a strange situation and I think I need your help, I really hope you can…My family lives in a house (4.300ft2 (400mt2)) in a rural area in Colombia, yes your reviews are helping one of the most remotes areas in the world, so we have Satellite Internet with Hughes Net. Speeds are never higher than 30 Mbps and because of the current router there is only good internet connection in one room. I want them to have a great mesh system that allows them to have Internet in the whole house, future proofed (WiFi 6) as we are trying to add more devices in the future (cameras, TVs, etc) and I cant really decide which mesh system is the best for us. Also, the house is fully wired. You guys talk about really high speeds here but that’s not possible there so I don’t know if a mesh system of a WiFi 6 system like the Asus AX3000 or ZenWiFi, taking into account its high price, are the best option. With those slow speeds from satellite internet, are we getting the advantages of WiFi 6? I want to make a good buy for them, what would you recommend in this situation?

    Thank you again Dong!

    Reply
    • Yes, there will be, Jacob, but the sustained speed will likely be the same. N is a fully optimized standard. But it’s better to get a higher-end AX router, which the TP-Link AX6000 is.

      Reply
  16. In your opinion, whats the best full featured valued oriented WIFI6 router? I have a few 3×3 clients (Wireless N) and want backwards compatibility so 2×2 AX3000 solutions prob aren’t favored for me.

    Reply
  17. Nice article! Do you think some manufacturers offer bullshit spec in their ratings? For example… You responded to my question about an ARRIS 7800, but this router seems to be capped at 80mhz and uses a wireless backhaul for a majority of its specification since they claim 4×4 4.8gbps.. Yet… I haven’t seen over 2gbps on that same backhaul (even while next to each other). Should the backhaul even be included on the capacity rating? Seems.. quite misleading.

    Anyway…. they also claim “2 other 2×2 radios for main channels, but the main active channel is actually a 4×4 radio since my Macbook has full 3×3 capability when in use.

    It’s painful.. I really don’t wanna return this router since I believe its actually a W31 with firmware that locks out performance (Theres no FCC page for a W30, but W21 which I believe is the AX6660 they’re releasing), but I read your review of the AX11000 and it seems to do the same bullshit with 80mhz.. which has me questioning what the hell is going on with ARRIS?

    Also when you divide the client capacity number off clients for the 1773 rating on AC 4×4.. I would assume that doesn’t include stuff like nitro-QAM. Wouldn’t make sense to me.

    Reply
  18. Dong, since you understand the importance of having a wired Ethernet backhaul, maybe you should do an article of the benefits of running a MoCa network. Given how cheap the solution is, I’m surprised more people don’t that in order to connect their network nodes in difficult situations. I recently did this exact thing to network the furthest rooms in the house to give them a reliable signal and low ping, and it’s made all the difference.

    Reply

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