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Wi-Fi access points (WAPs, or APs) are wireless signal broadcasters. In that sense, they are similar to extenders with one significant difference: how they connect to the source of the information they broadcast. An AP connects to the existing network, namely your router, using a network cable, and that changes everything.
Tip
Each time you connect a device to Wi-Fi, which might be the case right now as you’re reading this, your device is connected to an access point. It’s either a standalone AP or one inside a Wi-Fi router. There’s no other way.
You often know about a Wi-Fi access point (or do not know about it) when it’s included inside a Wi-Fi router. However, separating the AP from the router is an excellent way to build an effective Wi-Fi network in a wired environment where the Internet terminal is not located at the center or in any place suitable for a wireless broadcaster—such as a closet, a concrete basement, or a metal box. So, when applicable, using a standalone access point connected to a non-Wi-Fi router is the best way to implement a Wi-Fi network.
In this post, I’ll explain briefly the idea of Wi-Fi access points and offer tips on picking the best one for your network. If you’re already in the know and want to buy one today, here’s the list of the top access points among those I’ve tested:
Dong’s note: I first published this post on February 1, 2023, and updated it on February 7, 2025, to maintain relevant information.
Wi-Fi Access Points: Building a network with wired backhauling
Using a Wi-Fi access point means you build a network using network cables. That’s the traditional and the only way to have a top-performance network, especially with the help of Multi-Gig Ethernet.
But first, what exactly is an access point?
Access points in a nutshell
As mentioned, an access point (AP) is a device that broadcasts Wi-Fi signals. It’s the minimum requirement for an infrastructure Wi-Fi network. In many ways, an AP is like a network switch, but instead of Ethernet ports, it incorporates radio bands that emit wireless data signals using one or more Wi-Fi standards for clients to latch on.
An AP must have at least one network port to connect to the existing network. Some even have more for you to host wired clients. Many access points feature Power-over-Ethernet (PoE), allowing you to avoid running electrical wire to its location—the network cable also delivers power.
So, in a sentence, an AP is the required hardware component for a local network to host devices without running network cables to them.
Access points vs. Wi-Fi routers
We often experience Wi-Fi via a Wi-Fi router—or an ISP-supplied residential gateway. A Wi-Fi router is a standard router with built-in Wi-Fi access points. You have multiple functions in a single hardware box. As a result, you can use most Wi-Fi routers as:
- A standalone access point: When you change its role into such or turn off its routing function.
- A non-Wi-Fi router: When you turn off its Wi-Fi function.
The cabinet below highlights the roles of most Wi-Fi routers.
Popular roles of a Wi-Fi router
Below is the breakdown of four typical roles of a router. Not all hardware supports all of these, but most will have at least the first one plus another.
Some routers have even more roles—those from Asus, for example, also feature the proprietary AiMesh node role.
1. Wireless Router
This role is the default—the hardware will work as such unless you actively change that.
The hardware works as a Wi-Fi router that obtains an Internet connection and distributes it to the rest of the network via wired and Wi-Fi connections.
In this role, you must use the router’s WAN port for the Internet source. It’s also the only role in which the router’s routing and networking features (QoS, Parental Control, Dynamic DNS, VPN server, port-forwarding, etc.) are available.
Essentially, the hardware is now a standard routing box with a built-in managed switch and Wi-Fi access point(s).
2. Access Point (AP)
Important note: Certain vendors call this role “Bridge.”
In this mode, the hardware now works as an access point. It connects to an existing router via a network cable and extends the network farther, both wired and wireless.
In this role, none of the routing and features are available. All of the device’s network ports function as LAN ports. Essentially, the router is now a network switch with built-in Wi-Fi broadcaster(s).
By the way, if you have a Wi-Fi 6 router with a Multi-Gig WAN port, using it as an AP is the only way you can take advantage of this port’s high speed locally—without a Gig+ Internet connection, that is—assuming you have a Multi-Gig switch.
3. Repeater
The router now works as a Wi-Fi extender.
Specially, you use one of its bands (2.4GHz, 5GHz, or 6GHz) to connect to an existing Wi-Fi network—this is the backhaul band. After that, you can configure one or all of its bands (including the backhaul band) with separate SSID(s) to serve clients.
In this mode, all of the router’s network ports will work as LAN ports of the existing network.
4. Bridge or Media Bridge
Important note: Certain vendors—those that use “Bridge” to call the “Access Point” role as mentioned above—name this mode “Wireless Bridge.” There might be other arbitrary names for this role.
In this mode, the router works essentially as a Wi-Fi-to-Ethernet adapter.
Specifically, you use one of its bands to connect to an existing Wi-Fi network. Now, you can connect wired devices to the router’s LAN ports to make them part of the network. (In most cases, you should leave the WAN port alone, but some routers turn this port into another LAN.)
In the Media Bridge mode, the rest of the router’s Wi-Fi bands are unavailable.
Extra: Bridge mode in a gateway unit
The bridge mode is a bit different in a gateway unit, which is a router + modem combo box.
That’s when the gateway will work solely as a modem and no longer has any router-related function.
You can read more about how to get the most out of ISP-supplied equipment in this post.
This post discusses standalone access points, which can be used to add Wi-Fi to an existing network. That brings us to the first question: When do access points make sense?
When should you use an access point(s)
The first requirement before using an access point is wiring. You must run a network cable from the AP to your existing router or switch.
Scratch that! Let me put it this way: get your home wired so you can use a Wi-Fi broadcaster with wired backhauling. Running wires is the best way to build a robust Wi-Fi network. Often, only a single wire is needed and will make a huge difference.
After that, access points are applicable when:
- you have a non-Wi-Fi router, such as the UCG-Max, and want to add Wi-Fi to your network.
- your router has dated Wi-Fi standards. In this case, you can use an AP to upgrade your Wi-Fi network to the latest (currently Wi-Fi 7). (You can also turn off the Wi-Fi function of a Wi-Fi router to render it non-Wi-Fi or use its Wi-Fi network for a different purpose, such as extending the coverage, creating a Guest network, or building a separate network for IoT devices.)
- You want to extend Wi-Fi coverage to a far area, such as a large yard, a detached garage, or an outhouse, via a network cable.
- you want to build a robust enterprise-class Wi-Fi system
No matter the scenario, APs allow for flexibility—you place one in an area where Wi-Fi is needed, preferably in the middle of it. On the other hand, using a Wi-Fi router means you need to place the Wi-Fi broadcaster where the Internet enters your home, which is often not ideal.
Top 5 best non-Wi-Fi Routers
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| Name | Ubiquiti Cloud Gateway Fiber (UCG-Fiber)’s Rating | Ubiquiti UniFi Cloud Gateway Max (UCG-Max)’s Rating | Asus ExpertWiFi EBG15 Router’s Rating | EnGenius ESG510’s Rating | Amazon eero PoE Gateway’s Rating |
| Price | – | – | – | – | – |
| Rating | |||||
| Description | |||||
| Statistics | |||||
| Buy this product |
And that brings us to the second question: How do I pick the correct AP for my need?
Tips on picking access points
Access points share the same hardware arrangement rules with a mesh system via wired backhauling—each mesh satellite unit is, in fact, an access point. So, when it comes to picking the right hardware, there are a few things to keep in mind:
1. The number of access point units
In most homes, you’d need just one access point. In this case, things are simple.
A standalone access point requires individual management. You need to create the SSID(s) and configure them to your liking. However, that’s not a big deal with a single unit—you’ll have to create one Wi-Fi network anyway.
So, is only a single AP needed? Pick an AP that can be managed locally. An AP that requires a vendor-assisted web portal and login account can be a hassle to handle since you can’t manage it without a live Internet connection.
On the other hand, if you need multiple units to blanket your property, it’s best to get those that can work together—essentially to form a Wi-Fi system—so that you still have a single Wi-Fi network. In this case, getting individual disjointed access points can be a pain because you still have to manage them individually. Addtionally, those from different vendors tend not to work well together.
So, are multiple APs necessary? It’s best to get access points that belong to a managed ecosystem, such as UniFi of Ubiquiti, Asus AiMesh, EnGenius FIT, or TP-Link Omada. By the way, that’s generally how an enterprise-class Wi-Fi network is built.
Other options exist, but those above don’t require an ongoing subscription. The access points can each function as a standalone broadcaster with a local web user interface or mobile app.
2. Wi-Fi grade for access points
This part is purely about the performance you want vs. the budget—generally speaking, the higher grade, the faster, and the more expensive. For right now pic:
- If you want to stay with the latest, use Wi-Fi 7 access points. These are best for those with Wi-Fi 6 and newer devices.
- Pick Wi-Fi 6 access points if you want the most stable and highest backward compatibility. This case is for those with a lot of legacy devices.
- If you want to add backward compatibility to a network with Wi-Fi 7, pick a Wi-Fi 5 access point. This setup applies to those with many IoT or legacy devices.
Tip
Thinking about getting the best bang for the buck when picking hardware for a Wi-Fi system?
On this front, it’s general performance (grade) vs. coverage. Most of the time, you don’t need top performance, but you definitely want the best coverage. So, it’s generally a good idea, financially, to get (multiple) mid-tier units rather than focusing on top-tier options. Often, two mid-tier units cost the same as a single top-tier unit. Also note: No matter how high the Wi-Fi specs, a broadcaster’s Wi-Fi output is limited by its backhaul link, be it a wireless link (finicky) or a network port (determined by the port grade, namely Gigabit vs. Multi-Gig.)
3. Powering your access point: Power-over-Ethernet (PoE) vs. standard adapter
The last thing to consider when getting APs is Power-over-Ethernet, which is a technology that allows the use of a single network cable to deliver data signals and power a PoE device—your access point, in this case.
PoE is perfect for placing an AP in a location without an electrical outlet, such as an outdoor location—the middle of a large yard—or an attic. However, PoE is not necessary if you intend to use an AP near a power outlet.
To use PoE, you’ll also need a PoE switch (one switch can handle multiple APs) or a PoE injector for each AP. Make sure they use the same PoE standard (PoE, PoE+, or PoE++), but when in doubt, get the switch or injector of the highest PoE standard (PoE++). Some access points include their own injector, but most don’t.
All business-class access points support PoE—many don’t even have a power port. On the other hand, most home-grade access points, which generally also work as extenders, require a separate power adapter and often do not support PoE.
Access points vs. extenders vs. mesh systems
A mesh Wi-Fi system consists of multiple Wi-Fi broadcasters that work together and can be managed in one place, such as a mobile app or the primary router unit’s web user interface.
In a mesh with wireless backhauling, each satellite unit is essentially a centrally managed Wi-Fi extender. In a mesh with wired backhauling, each satellite unit is essentially a centrally managed access point.
The most significant difference between a Wi-Fi system vs. using multiple individually managed broadcasters is that the former gives you better ease of use, low (or no) interference between broadcasters, and seamless handoff, while the latter doesn’t.
Ready to make the move? Below is the current list of the top five best access points you can safely bring home today.
Top 5 best Wi-Fi access points
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| Name | Ubiquiti UniFi E7’s Rating | TP-Link Omada EAP783’s Rating | Asus ExpertWiFi EBA63’s Rating | EnGenius EWS850-FIT (formerly EWS850AP) Access Point’s Rating | Zyxel WBE660S Wi-Fi 7 Access Point’s Rating |
| Price | – | – | – | – | – |
| Rating | |||||
| Description | |||||
| Statistics | |||||
| Buy this product |
The recap
Individually, a Wi-Fi access point is an excellent way to build a Wi-Fi network because, thanks to the wired backhaul (the network cable), it delivers the best possible wireless performance for its Wi-Fi grade. When deployed correctly, multiple APs can work together as a robust mesh system.
Here are a couple of things to keep in mind when using access points:
- You need a router to build a network. So, before thinking of using an access point, make sure you already have a router. In this case, a non-Wi-Fi router is the most suitable, though you can get a Wi-Fi router and turn its Wi-Fi function off to have the same effect.
- Many access points feature PoE. In this case:
- You’ll need a PoE switch or individual PoE injectors to use them. On this front, you need to get a PoE switch or injectors of the same or higher standard than the one used by the access points. When in double, get a switch or injectors of the highest PoE standard (PoE++)
- Some routers have built-in PoE ports. If you pick one, check its PoE standard to see if it supports the access point you want to use.
Last but not least, access points need network cables. So, get your home wired today!
I just went to fiber and att. They provided equipment. Wifi signal range not as great as I had before when I had cox with my Asus axe11000 router connect obviously. Should I connect my asus or get an extender? I’m getting good speeds from fiber.
You should have gotten just the ONT, Derek. For your case, check out this post that handles that in great details.
I’ll check this out thanks
Hello Dong,
I’m considering to build my own in house network, I thought to use nanopi as main router along with some trendnet multigiga switches. My final thought is to use Asus xt9 set as my ap.
Do the xt9 wan port would act as multigig uplink?
What’s are your thoughts about this configuration?
Yes, Yanai. Use this portion of the post on Multi-Gig AiMesh as the reference.
Hi Dong,
thank you for your reply, I really appreciate that.
as for Aimesh, I don’t really understand that, those it’s not only works if I use another Asus device as my main router?
I thought to use the xt9 set as regular regular AP, but I’m reading online some comments that say Asus devices on regular AP (No Aimesh) not working through wan (2.5g) port, only on the regular lan (1gbs in this case) so I basically would be restricted with my bandwidth on Wifi to only 1gbs speed….
I don’t address what you read elsewhere, Yanai. Make sure you read. You can start with this post on what a router is.
Mr Ngo I do have cat 6 in addition to electrical outlets in most rooms
I’d go with one of these.
Mr. Ngo,
If you were placing the best system for your home that is 5800 square feet. Media room in 2200 sq foot basement with router in basement. How would you set up? Wap off of router )I currently have 3 basement 1st floor study and 2nd floor bedroon) would mesh be better or what set up? Thank you looking for speed but not frequently losing connection
I read the entire post and appreciate the insight. I’m left with the impression there is no practical difference between a multiple AP with wired backhaul setup and a wired mesh wifi system, other than buying them individually or in a package? Is that correct?
I’m one of the people you mentioned with the home internet coming in at the front corner of the front house in a closet, and I want to have full coverage to both my front house and back house on an 8,000 sqft lot, if possible. If that’s not achievable because the back house would likely have to be a wireless backhaul, I’ll just do the front house and surrounding yard and let the back house get their own internet service. Either way, I need a system with multiple access points, I think.
Would you suggest I buy one of your recommended 6/6E mesh systems, or do something like Ubiquity (or another system) with multiple access points? I care less about having gigabit speed everywhere than I do about having a good 200-300 Mbps wherever I am, with no distinguishable switch over when it goes from one node to the other. I can’t conceive of needing more than that even with 4K Dolby Vision streaming, but can see how it would be annoying when moving around the house if switching.
APs generally have the PoE option while most canned mesh systems don’t. Other than that, yes, they are kinda of the same things. More on that ih this post explaining mesh. You’ll also find recommendations and buying guides there. Good luck, Luke!
> I’m left with the impression there is no practical difference between a multiple AP with wired backhaul setup and a wired mesh wifi system, other than buying them individually or in a package?
A mesh system uses protocols (802.11 k/v/r) to hand over compatible clients (pretty much any modern laptop or mobile phone) from one mesh AP node to another, nearly instantly. The client device is aware of the change of AP / channel.
A non-mesh AP handover is a bit hit-and-miss and the client can take quite a while to re-establish a connection with the router.
Also have a look at Powerline which uses your electrical wiring in your house to carry your network. You can then place an AP in places you haven’t got ethernet cabling.
If you use multiple APs of the same vendor with a controller, like TP-Link Omada or EnGenius FIT, you’ll get real mesh, Jon. Seamless handoff is always hit or miss, especially with Apple devices. I’d recommend against Powerline, it’s very slow and finicky.
Hi Dong, slightly off topic for this post. What causes a particular WiFi to prevent emails from downloading? I in an Airbnb who’s WiFi signal prevents emails from loading. If I turn off WiFi or leave the signal emails will load when only connected to cellular. Using an iPhone 15 pro. Strange!
It’s likely that the router’s settings have been changed (by a previous guest?) to restrict certain services (as a prank or whatnot)–more here. I’d reset it and set it up anew.
HI Dong, it must be something else, I’ve moved on to another airbnb (Salerno) and the same thing is happening my iPhone, my wife’s and my iPad. When I turn off WiFi on my phone and emails come in. Must be related to my email service provider or Apple settings? Not a priority, I know you are busy but am very curious. Strange
Carmine
Then it’s likely the Privacy or Security setting on the device. It’s one of those dumb things Apple thinks it’s smart to make the default on their new OS updates. Also remove/disconnect your VPN , if any. Good luck!
Hi Dong,
I read all four non-Wifi router reviews but none ticked all my boxes. I’m looking for an affordable ($300ish) multi-gig router to connect my AP’s via hard-wire. I could build a pfsense box in my price range but I’m not convinced that’s the best option. Could you lead me in the right direction please?
Generally, I’m not keeping track of costs but Multi-Gig is still a novelty, David. You can always turn the Wi-Fi off. So this one might be up your alley — I’m still testing it.
Hi Dong,
I’ve been using the Asus ROG GT-AX6000 based on your recommendation in another article, and it’s been working great. I have also now put in a wired backhaul to the other end of my home, and am now considering what access point to install.
One factor I couldn’t confirm in reading the article (though it may be an implied assumption), is that; if I wanted to have a single interface to manage both the GT-AX6000 and the access point, then the Asus RP-AX58 would be my only option. Is that correct? Or would I be able to manage a different brand AP from the Asus admin page?
Again, it might be a silly question, but I did want to make sure.
Thank you so much.
That’s partly correct, Melvin. You can use any Asus AiMesh broadcasters, preferably Dual-band Wi-Fi 6 ones in your case. More here.
The linked article, and the ones that linked to that article, gave me all the information I needed. Thank you so much for this. Brilliant insights, as always. 🙂
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Hi Dong,
Great article! Could you consider doing a review of the AP OSes? Which has the best features for client management?
Also maybe parental controls. (I know b2b pc are tough) but ability to limit client time per day, total usage time per day, block websites youtube, tiktok per client. Stuff like that.
I already did that, Chris. More here. I only included solutions that are free to use.
All enterprise/business solution has what you want, it’s not called “Parental Controls,” though.
Dong, thank you for the timely article…
I recently purchased and installed a ASUS RT-AX88U as my router and moved our TPLINK AX50 as a AP. Wired.
As you commented about the handover…My confusion is the WIFI, do they need distinct SSID’s, channels etc?
Do you have recommended channels?
You can give the two’s SSIDs the same name and password and leave the other Wi-Fi settings as “Auto”. That should work.
Hi Dong, I have a Linksys AC2600 as my router and I’m thinking of using a Linksys AC1200 MAX Range Extender in each of my three bedrooms and have them set up as wired access points. The default SSID for these extenders is ***_ext with *** being my main router’s SSID.
I would like to get that kind of seamless handoff as I roam from room to room in the house. Is it as simple as changing the ***_ext to *** and the same password as that for my main router? And I won’t have to manually switch network?
Thanks for your advice.
You can change the SSID and password to match and that would help a bit but you won’t have a mesh system. More here.
Thanks! I wasn’t thinking of a mesh system. More like extenders set up as wired backhaul access points. Like a star network. But I understand now what you mean:
“It’s important not to take seamless literally. That doesn’t exist.“
Whether it’s the same or different SSID, it is a client that decides which AP it wants to connect to and that is difficult to control.
My phone remains connected to the living room SSID even when I stand next to the AP in my bedroom. The signal is one, two-bar strong and I think the phone just decides that it won’t look for a stronger signal just yet. So I have to manually switch to the stronger SSID in my room. I understand that clients will only look for a new signal and switch over when the connection is very bad.
And it’s the same with mesh system and nodes. If I walk around connected, my phone will stay on its original connection until the signal is so weak it doesn’t work. Then it will look for a new node but because my house is not very very big, my phone will always be able to pick up the 2.4Ghz band signal from my main router in the living room. It’s just not strong.
So it doesn’t help even if I change to the same SSID. I’m fact, in such a case, it may be better to keep separate SSIDs so that it’s easy to tell which signal is poor.
Thanks again!
I agree with BillD. I don’t understand why you didn’t took Unifi 6E enterprise in this test. Their AP’s work also standalone…
Maybe for an update at some point.
They are going that direction. But I have their WAPs and router and run Unify. They are REALLY trying to get me to let their cloud manage. 10 devives and free. I just couldn’t need 10! But I staill manage WAPs… They have been great too, but I’m thinking you’re referring that some features only work with their full suite; router, switch, WAP.
Help me!! I am set for ceiling or even upper wall PoE mount. I can’t find a ceiling mount WiFi 6E!! I NEVER thought it would be a prob!!
I have an Asus GT-AX6000 main router with numerous other Asus access points, each WIRED to the main router. I am going to need outdoor WiFi in a freestanding pergola I am building.
I’m thinking about either getting another Asus access point (like the ZenWiFi XD5) and putting it in a waterproof box or getting something that’s meant to be outdoors (but obviously doesn’t integrate with Asus). In either case, I’ll be able to create a WIRED connection to the main router. Any opinions on the tradeoff between keeping everything Asus vs. using hardware intended for outside?
That’s the same as using a standalone access point, Jason, as detailed in this post.
This is slightly off topic but I have a question about your usual recommendations on best way to get food Wi-Fi coverage. Your recommendation is a mesh system with wired back haul. You are right but……..
I would venture to say most people that go to a mesh system to get coverage do not have the easy ability to implement “wired” backhaul, if they did them they likely wouldn’t need a mesh network as they would have the ability to used the wired network for coverage. Am I wrong?
It seems you’re stuck with the archaic definition of what a mesh is, or the idea that things and opinions are categorized as “wrong” or “right”. To answer your question, you’re just dated. Time for a new “firmware.” 🙂
All I’m trying to say is if you are going mesh you will probably have to go wireless backhaul. Not what is right or wrong
Or you don’t have to go wireless backhaul — and you shouldn’t. That’s what I was telling you. Your idea of “mesh” was applicable about 10 years ago. And I was there.
Sorry still confused. Have high speed cable into the 3 floor. No Ethernet anywhere in the house, how do I get coverage to the 1st floor (or basement or backyard) without wireless backhaul. How is this 10 years ago concept.
Am truly wondering what I have missed.
You can use wireless backhaul, but it won’t deliver the speed you’d like — wired backhauling is not a must. Like I said in the first reply, it’s not about zero terms, as in “wrong or right,” but always somewhere in between. Give this post a good read again, and more in this one. Please make sure you read before commenting as stated by the comment rules. I reply to all questions with the assumption that folks have followed the rules.
Pretty much. You can’t go wired everywhere. Unless you like walking around w/ your Tablet and a LONG PoE Cat6 cable w/ adapter. You need mesh in a decent sized house for portable devices. Maybe some are lucky enough that everything wifi is in same area, but chances are there will be a dead spot.
Like I said, portable devices aren’t suited for hardwire. Then if you are a smart home nut like me, you know that things like the TV and AV Receiver can (and DEFINITELY are hardwired). But wifi is used as well, or the smarthome won’t pick the device up often.
He just said it’s ‘best’! It avoids an extra jump or two, since all talk straight to switch. Then, there are aesthetics.
I have a media cabinet where everything is hardwired cat6, (ip cams outdoors, extra ports, 2 rj 45 per bedroom, 4 in my office, 6 in home Theater, etc.. I have A LOT! But for a seamless install, they go into my walk-in closet. Although I’m going to graduate to a small server and build a very efficient closet for clothing, hidden stuff, and a cabinet that is temp controlled and shut. Temp sensor will turn on fans that pull filtered air in and through, exiting by pushed out into the attic. will have one-way flap.
Soon, when I make 10+ GB switch from 1 gb system.
Sorry I’m not at max clarity. I hope I answered right. It’s late and LONG DAY! I can just vouch for WAP PoE hardwire straight to switch. It is WIN-WIN-WIN! (I’m trying to find two AP WiFi 6e Mesh Sys to ceiling mount. Would think not so dang hard!!)
This is a good article, however I am surprised that there is no mention of Ubiquiti access points.
There are devices that have WiFi and Switch, as well as standalone Access points.
The Ubiquiti devices can be operated in conjunction with a Ubquiti Dream Router, a Dream Machine Pro or a PC/MAC with the appropriate Network APP installed
Having recently switched to a Dream Machine Pro with 3 Access points I have been totally amazed at the stability of my system, especially the IOT devices which no longer suffer disconnect issues previously experienced with an ASUS Mesh system
I mentioned them in this post, Stuart. UniFi is a bit proprietary. I don’t see a point in getting them as standalone APs.
UniFi is no more proprietary than the Omada line. Hard to see why it was left off.
As you point out, “But using multiple individually managed extenders or access points in a network is not ideal from the management’s perspective.” Yet of your list you only discuss Omada and maybe Asus as part of a system.
UniFi has several AP form factors, including ceiling, wall, tabletop, outdoor that makes tailoring a WiFi system to one’s property easy and comprehensive. And even sometimes cheap. A competent router (UniFi or not) plus a few U6 Lites can cover most residences at a cheaper price than the high-end consumer systems.
I’d not get an UniFi AP unless I have a UDR, UDM, or one of those Pro controllers, Bill. The post needed only five. If you use all of those I mentioned, you’d know why.
I completely don’t understand? A UniFi router/switch setup gives one a single management console including a controller. That’s it. The UniFi AP system works fine with other routers/switches. Lots of people (including power users who might use something like a pfSense or OPNsense routers) use UniFi for WiFi because the APs do work well and are not expensive.
Completely understand this, Bill: I’m not you — there are things about me and what I pick you will never comprehend or agree with. As I said and mentioned earlier in this thread, I only picked five, and those from the UniFi family don’t make the list. I put them on a different list, and that list doesn’t include some of the ones mentioned here.
Whatever. If you want to say that UniFi’s customer support can be iffy, or their firmware has historically sometimes been buggy that would be understandable. What’s not understandable is making a statement that using random APs together is not a good idea and then making 2-3 of your recommendations random stand alone APs. Omada is more or less an imitation of UniFi’s system. Both are pretty good especially for home users. Another AP system that is easily findable and usable for consumers (even available in Microcenter retail stores) would be HP Aruba Instant On. Also, your linked previous article had a couple of paragraphs on the UDM/UDR and was not about APs.
Please read the posts carefully, Bill. Looks like you just skimped them — or any text — over to validate your points and get the opportunity to express your frustration and “knowledge”. As stated in the rules, I reply to each comment with the assumption folks have followed them.
They are going that direction. But I have their WAPs and router and run Unify. They are REALLY trying to get me to let their cloud manage. 10 devives and free. I just couldn’t need 10! But I staill manage WAPs… They have been great too, but I’m thinking you’re referring that some features only work with their full suite; router, switch, WAP.
Help me!! I am set for ceiling or even upper wall PoE mount. I can’t find a ceiling mount WiFi 6E!! I NEVER thought it would be a prob!!